Food is a priority in any long emergency. It gives you the energy to work and to think. Without it you can last a couple of days, or even weeks, but after a day or two of going hungry your energy drops, your decisions get worse, the mental fog sets in, and you lose the ability to act in your own interest. A reliable supply of food has to come from somewhere, and for most people in the field that means hunting, fishing or foraging.
Catching wild game looks easy until you try it. Traps and snares are the answer many survivors reach for, because they work while you do something else. This guide covers how snares work, what to make them from, which animals they suit, the other trap types worth knowing, and how the same ideas can protect a property. Read the legal section before you build anything.
A note on the law #
Survival snares are illegal or tightly regulated in many countries and jurisdictions. Several US states do allow them in a true survival situation, but you should not assume that applies to you. Many areas also restrict the kinds of traps allowed and the species that can be targeted. Before you trap for food or set anything for security, find out what local law says. A life-or-death emergency is a different matter, and no one should die for a regulation, but nothing short of that justifies breaking the rules. The same ethics apply to every kind of take; safe and sustainable hunting for food covers them.
What a snare is #
A snare is a length of cordage, wire or string tied into a loop with a slipknot. You secure the free end to a bush, a tree limb, a heavy rock or a sturdy stick, then place the loop along the regular path of a small edible animal. The loop is meant to slip over the animal’s neck as it moves forward and tighten as it goes.
The animal feels the loop, starts to struggle, and the struggling tightens the noose. Given time, the loop may kill it by asphyxiation. In many cases it doesn’t kill cleanly, but instead causes a neck injury and prolonged suffering. That is part of why snares are often illegal. They are also an extremely efficient, easy-to-improvise way to get food, and they are simple to build as long as you know how to tie a slipknot.
Because of the suffering involved, check a snare line often, and don’t set more than you can tend.
Snare materials #
It would be a disaster to catch a small animal and lose it because the snare material gave way. You lose the food, and the animal is left in distress. Use the strongest material you have. The common choices are small-gauge wire, small rope and cordage.
Small-gauge wire is the best material for snares. You can find it in most emergencies. For example, the wire inside the power cord of an appliance is excellent. Make sure the device is unplugged first, cut the cord to length, and peel or slice off the rubber or plastic insulation. Inside there will be thin, firm, flexible metal strands. Tie a loop with a slipknot and the snare is ready.
Small rope or cordage is harder to use, because limp material doesn’t hold its loop open. You may need lightweight sticks or dry grass stalks to hold the noose in shape. The supports should be sturdy enough to hold the loop, but not so strong that the noose can’t collapse when the animal puts its head through. The rope itself has to be firm enough to overcome a struggling animal. Strong cordage such as parachute cord (paracord) is a good choice.
What to snare #
In general, snares work only on small edible game, such as rabbits and squirrels. These animals often fail to see the cordage or wire, and cannot generate enough force to break free.
You can set snares for larger animals, such as impala, antelope or Thomson’s gazelle, but your chances of success fall. A larger animal needs a bigger, stronger wire, and that wire is easier to see. An animal may be curious, but it isn’t foolish.
There is also a risk in what you attract. A trapped animal is easy prey, and a predator that finds it will not be pleased to be interrupted. Be careful not to compete for food with leopards, lions, hyenas, bears or wolves, depending on where you are.
Setting traps effectively #
Understanding how an animal moves and behaves matters more than the trap design. Place your snare where animals regularly travel, such as along a trail, through a gap in brush or near a burrow entrance. Pay attention to placement, bait and trigger, so the animal is caught efficiently.
Check traps regularly. You want them to be secure and in working order, and you want to find non-target animals quickly. Make sure your traps can’t hurt anyone else. If other people are around, tell them where the traps are, to avoid accidents.
Other traps for food #
Snares are one of several options. Each trap is designed for particular animals based on behaviour and habitat.
| Trap | How it works |
|---|---|
| Box trap | Lures an animal into a box-like structure where it can’t escape until retrieved. |
| Snare | A noose that tightens around an animal’s neck or body as it walks through. |
| Deadfall | Uses a heavy object that drops and crushes the prey when the animal triggers the mechanism. |
Knowing how each works, and when to use which, raises your success rate considerably. A box trap catches animals alive, which can be an advantage if you want to release non-target animals. A deadfall is quick but needs a heavy object and a reliable trigger. A snare is the lightest and cheapest of the three to carry and make.
Traps for security #
Trapping skills can also protect a property. If you place traps around the perimeter, you can deter unwelcome visitors and get early warning of them. Prefer non-lethal designs that deter or alert rather than injure.
| Trap | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Trip wire | A wire stretched across a path that makes a noise or distraction when disturbed, to alert you to intruders. |
| Alarm trap | Sets off a loud alarm when triggered, alerting you and others nearby to a possible threat. |
| Barrier | A physical obstacle that slows or impedes intruders, buying you time to prepare or call for help. |
Put these where intruders are most likely to approach, at the vulnerable points around your property. Use them together with other security measures, not instead of them. Tell everyone who lives with you where they are, so nobody trips one by accident. And remember that security traps can fall foul of local law even more readily than food traps. Anything that could injure a person carries serious legal and moral risk. See also legal rules for self-defense weapons and tools.
Practice before you need it #
Trapping is a skill like any other. Experiment with different set-ups, learn from experienced trappers, and test your snares and triggers at home. Practice improves efficiency and raises your chances in the field. Your MREs will only last as long as you have them, or until they expire. A snare line set well, and checked on time, is a way to bring in protein-rich food day after day. Learn it before the day you need it. Once you have game, preserving meat without refrigeration explains how to keep it. A quiet alternative is a survival bow and arrows, and the survival skills section has more.