Rain, snow and soaked ground are when you most want a fire, and when it is hardest to get one. Moisture in the air and underfoot makes fuel hard to ignite, and a flame that does catch can die in minutes if it is not protected. The problem is manageable, though. Most failed wet-weather fires fail for the same reasons: poor site, damp tinder, impatience and a structure that smothers the flame.
This guide walks through the process in order: preparing the site, finding dry material, building a base, choosing a fire lay, lighting it, keeping it alive in rain, and putting it out when you are done.
Pick and prepare the site #
Choose a sheltered spot. Under tree cover, against a rock face or in a hollow out of the wind will keep precipitation off the fire. Avoid low spots where water collects, and stay clear of overhanging branches that could dump snow or water onto the flames, or catch fire.
Clear the area of wet leaves, sticks and other debris. That reduces the chance of the fire spreading and gives you a clean place to work. Clear a wide enough space around the fire pit that stray sparks have nothing to land on.
Then build a base. Wet ground steals heat and drowns a young fire, so get your fire off it. Look for a flat, elevated surface, or lay down a layer of dry rocks or logs. A platform of sticks, crisscrossed to make a mesh, will lift the fire and let air in from underneath. That airflow matters as much as the dry surface.
Gather materials before you strike anything #
The most common mistake is lighting a match before you have enough fuel. Collect everything first, and sort it into three piles.
Tinder #
Tinder has to catch from a spark or a small flame, so it must be dry and fluffy. Good natural choices are birch bark, dry grass, pine needles and dead leaves that are truly dry. Birch bark burns even when damp because of its natural oils. Cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly are a reliable man-made option and weigh almost nothing, and dryer lint works the same way. Commercial fire starters are worth carrying, too.
Kindling #
Kindling is the next size up, from pencil-lead to thumb thickness. Look for dry twigs and small branches that snap cleanly rather than bend. Sticks that bend are damp or green. Collect small pieces that fit comfortably in your hand, but not so thin that they burn out at once. Wood shavings work too, and you can make them with a knife. Gather far more than you think you need.
Fuelwood #
Fuelwood is larger wood that sustains the fire after it is established. Look for dead standing trees and branches that have fallen but are held off the ground, because wood that has been lying on wet ground soaks up moisture. Even wet wood often has a dry core. Splitting it exposes the dry interior, and shaving the bark gives you small pieces that catch much better than the outside surface. Gather a range of sizes, so you can feed the fire as it grows.
Choose a fire lay #
How you stack the wood affects airflow, protection from damp and how long the fire lasts. Each of these lays has a use.
Teepee #
Place tinder in the center and lean kindling around it in a cone, leaving a gap on the upwind side to light the tinder. Put the thinnest, driest pieces at the top and larger pieces below, and leave an opening at the bottom for airflow. As it catches, add more kindling and then fuelwood. It is a fast, reliable lay and a good default.
Lean-to #
Place the tinder on the ground, then lean kindling against a larger piece of wood or a log at a slight angle. Light the tinder and add fuel as it grows. This arrangement shields the tinder from wind and rain on one side, which is a real help in poor weather.
Pyramid #
Start with two large logs side by side with a small gap. Build kindling on top in a teepee shape, leaving a way to light the tinder, and add fuel as the fire grows. The logs raise the fire off the ground.
Log cabin #
Lay two parallel logs with a small gap, then stack a crisscross layer of sticks across them. Add layers of alternating kindling, building it up like a log cabin with a chimney-like opening in the center. It builds a sturdy, well-ventilated structure and burns steadily.
Upside-down fire #
Place large logs at the bottom, parallel to each other with small gaps. Stack smaller logs on top in a crisscross pattern, about the same length as the base logs. Then add loose tinder on top. The fire burns downward, igniting each layer in turn. This gives a slow, long-lasting burn that needs little tending, which is handy when you cannot stay awake to feed a fire.
Getting it lit #
Use a reliable ignition source. Ferrocerium rods, magnesium fire starters and waterproof matches all work in damp conditions, and a lighter is a dependable backup. A ferro rod throws hot sparks even when wet, which makes it the best all-weather tool of the lot.
Char cloth #
Char cloth is cotton that has been partially burned in a low-oxygen environment, and it catches a spark almost instantly. To make it, cut 100% cotton fabric into small squares and put them in a metal tin with a small hole in the lid. Heat the tin over a fire until the smoke stops and the fabric turns black without turning to ash. Let it cool before opening the tin. Once cooled, a spark will turn it into a glowing ember that you can transfer to your tinder bundle and blow into flame. It is a good use of a fire you already have, and a few pieces stored in a dry tin can save a fire later.
Light the tinder #
Light the tinder, not the kindling. Protect the flame with your body or a piece of bark, feed it with the thinnest kindling first, and add pieces gradually. Placing too much on too soon smothers the flame. Keep the structure loose so air can move.
Keep the rain off #
In steady rain or snow, a fire needs a roof.
- Build a shelter over the fire. Use branches and leaves, or a tarp if you have one, and cover the whole fire bed. Leave enough space for air and smoke to escape.
- Use a tarp or poncho. Tie it securely, keep it tight so water runs off, and make sure it does not touch the flames or get too close to the heat.
- Make a natural canopy. If you have no tarp, lean large branches or leaves over the fire to shed water.
Make sure that whatever is overhead cannot catch fire, and stay alert. A fire under a cover can set fire to the cover.
Feeding the fire #
Add wood a little at a time, in increasing sizes, and keep an eye on it. Piling on too much smothers the flame and cuts off oxygen. Keep it ventilated, and do not cover it with objects that block air. A balance of fuel and airflow keeps it going. Wet fuel dries if you place it near the fire, so stack extra wood beside it to dry as you burn the dry pieces.
Fire safety #
Wet weather does not remove the risk of a runaway fire.
- Clear the ground around the fire.
- Keep water nearby, even when it is raining.
- Never leave a fire unattended. Fires in wet conditions can behave unpredictably.
Putting it out #
Let the fire burn down until only embers are left. Spread the ashes and coals with a stick so there are no hot spots, then pour water over the fire bed until you are sure the heat is gone. Stir and check by hand, held close, before you leave. Leave no trace of the fire, and no risk of a wildfire.
What to remember #
Most of the work in a wet-weather fire happens before the match is struck. Choose a sheltered site, build a raised base, gather more dry material than you think you need, and protect the fire from the rain. Carry reliable ignition and a few fire starters, and practice in poor weather before you depend on it.
Related reading: the full survival skills guide.